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 Alternatives exist if ceiling joists make job difficult
by Bill and Kevin Burnett, Inman News
In 1979, a 16-by-24-foot addition was built on the ground floor, first floor and top floor. On the top floor, a wall separates the kitchen from the rest of this area. On the other two floors there is no wall in this area. This wall goes floor to ceiling, is 9 1/2 feet long and runs parallel to the 16-foot dimension (of the addition). Can I assume that because no wall exists in this place on any of the other floors, this is not a weight-bearing wall? How can I tell? Do I need to bring in an engineer?
DIY landlords working on pre-1978 buildings must sign up for certification classes by September 30. Failure to meet new certification and training standards could result in significant fines up to $37,500 per violation. Solar lighting, decorative panels among options by Paul Bianchina
Replacing vinyl with tile a do-it-yourself job by Bill and Kevin Burnett, Inman News
The adhesive tile began to curl up at the edges. My husband and I pulled the tiles off and found the subfloor to be completely soaked. Help! We live in Oakland, Calif., and became homeowners in 2007. Needless to say, we need to find someone to repair this who is good, can be trusted and is reasonably priced. A: We’re afraid you’ve got the worst of all possible worlds: vinyl peel-and-stick tiles over particleboard. We’re happy to say that your problem can be easily fixed. But, sad to say, it will be a short-term fix. The energy savings vs. resale value debate
by Paul Bianchina  Q: I have a 1950s home. Last year I remodeled, but did not change out the windows. I got an estimate yesterday (for new windows) at $8,200. Would that be a good investment? –Gayle H.A: The answer to that question depends on exactly what you mean by it being a good investment. First of all, I’m a big fan of changing out older, single-pane windows for new energy-efficient ones. They save on utility costs; they help conserve energy for all of us; and they’ll make your home quieter and more comfortable. So from the standpoint of comfort and reduced utility bills, it’s definitely a good investment. Planning to remodel, repair, or build new? Read this first.
Licensed, bonded, and insured” is a term used loosely in the construction industry and therefore it is important to understand these basics of construction contracting. How a whole-house fan works
There is an air conditioning system, but it is not zoned and the ductwork is inadequate on the (hottest) floor. On very hot days, the sun pummels us all afternoon, and the heat just soaks into the wood shingles. By evening, the air inside is as hot as the air outside, and by nighttime, the air inside is far hotter than the air outside. Ceiling fans do little but mask the discomfort. We have been considering installing an electric fan of some sort. A traditional attic fan sounds ideal, except we have no attic. Is there some variation we could use that would vent the hot air and draw in the nice, cool nighttime air? Consider professional refurbishing as alternative to replacement
A: In the mid-1980s, when Kevin gutted his 1879 Victorian in Alameda, Calif., he decided to convert an undersized third bedroom into a period bathroom. He did make one concession to modern convenience by installing a shower. The rest of the fixtures were antique, including a claw-foot tub, a two-piece chain-pull toilet and a pedestal sink. Being ever frugal, Kevin hit the recycling yards. Kevin prefers to think of this as being “green” before his time. New appliances are a better investment than carport
Moisture, incompatible materials likely to blame by Bill and Kevin Burnett, Inman News Q: In 2005, we painted our 1959 stucco house in the Washington Manor area of San Leandro, Calif., with elastomeric paint. Over the course of the week, I watched the contractor power-wash, scrape, then prime and roll on the new paint. Within six months, the new paint began to peel and flake. The contractor came back and redid the work, but it continues to flake off. I want to repaint my house without elastomeric paint. How do I seal the walls?   Add Super Saver to any membership for only $ 19.95! 
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Q: I co-own a duplex in San Francisco that was built around 1912. This was a single-family home that was converted to two flats. I occupy the upstairs flat.
The EPA’s new Renovation, Repair and Painting rules are already in effect. 
Everyone loves having an outdoor deck to relax on during the summer months. But if your deck is just a little bit on the boring side, there’s a wide variety of deck helpers available for turning “ho-hum” into “wow”!
Q: Our bathroom subfloor, which appears to be particleboard, has been wet since my father took a shower in our claw-foot bathtub two weeks ago.
Construction is expensive when things go right. When things go wrong, it can be financially devastating.
Q: We live in a split-level, west-facing contemporary home built in the early 1980s. It has very high, slanted ceilings in many of the rooms and no attic. It is beautiful and we love it. But it gets hot.
Q: We installed a pedestal sink about 10 years ago. In the last year or two it has developed hairline cracks. Most are around the drain, but there are also some on the back edge where the sink turns vertical. Is there anything I can do to stop them, and how can the sink be repaired?
Q: I have two questions about fix-and-flip remodels. On a 1963, 1,300-square-foot tri-level brick home, is it worth it to build a carport? Some homes in the neighborhood have carports and others have garages or nothing at all. This home also has no appliances. Is it best to buy appliances so it shows better? –Susan
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